Stephen Simon has been thinking a lot about how to create healthy food that’s also enticing. The menu he has created since taking over as head chef at Soho House 76 Dean Street a few months ago is 50 per cent plant-based, with dishes like smoked celeriac with orange, fennel and toasted almonds putting vegetables centre-stage. 'When we first opened, our food was really leading the way in Soho House,' says Jamie Kerr. 'Now as the world around us has moved on a little it’s time for us to up our game and make sure we’re as modern and appealing as possible.'
A plateful of baby aubergine halves, grilled until almost creamy and scattered with slivers of fresh red chilli, spring onions and mint leaves, disappears very quickly on the photoshoot. 'With a dish like this you have to make sure the produce is amazing,' says Stephen, who previously worked at Claridge’s and Helene Darroze at the Connaught before reopening Café Boheme last year. 'I’ve spent a lot of time looking for the right suppliers and making sure that everything is colourful and looks great.'
The high proportion of plant-based dishes is a response to demand from members and guests who are more conscious of their health and the environment. But there are still some standout meat and fish dishes for those who have yet to go full-time vegan – fillet of cod with coconut and basil broth and turmeric being one, and Swaledale lamb chops with broccoli rice and ginger another.